At Pan Pan Vino Vino, a Pastry Chef Gets into the Bakery Game

Chef Sam Short makes magic with sugar, spice — and citric acid.

When I first moved to New York in 2008, Greenpoint was such a quiet, residential part of North Brooklyn, it never really warranted a trip — especially not on the sole train that serviced the area, the G train, which very much lived up to its nickname as the G for Ghost train.

Back then, neighborhood gems like Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop were still larg…