Masa Madre Takes Its Time

Seasoned chef Jose Luis Flores knows you can’t rush a good thing.

If you’ve never had piloncillo sugar before, the word that first comes to mind is soulful. It’s a rich and layered taste, slowly unfurling its caramel tones like sticky molasses, ancient and immutable. Piloncillo is an unrefined sugar and for thousands of years some version of it has been used in countries across the world, from Southeast Asia to Mexico…