At Laurel Bakery, What’s Old is New

Amidst a flurry of new bakeries doing the most with laminated dough, Laurel leans into well-made classics.

There’s a new trend in laminated Viennoiserie in New York City’s bakeries. It’s not the cartoonish 2D flattened croissants, nor is it the 3D triangular pastries that look like Japanese onigiri. It’s a pastry called pain Suisse and you can find it in bakery cases at stalwarts like La Cabra or big name newcomers like Laurel Bakery in Brooklyn, the subject…