Is This NYC's Most Inventive Dessert Menu?

Chef Lars Varley turns kitchen constraints into creative ingenuity at HAGS in New York.

I don’t know who said this first as it’s now one of those universal truisms, but I’ve heard that applying constraints to the creative process can often result in something more profound than open, unbridled artistry. For Lars Varley, the pastry chef at the East Village fine dining restaurant HAGS, those constraints aren’t just keeping a vegan kitchen, w…