Going Whole Grain at Atla’s Conchas

A new bakery in Harlem pushes against complicated notions of authenticity in favor of the optimal.

At Mexican panaderías across the five boroughs, conchas are zealously big and topped with crumbly crusts that are tinted with unnaturally exuberant shades of Barbie pink or highlighter yellow. They are quotidian buns in the pastry case, affordable enough for breakfast or a snack every day, but a colorful bout of celebration nonetheless. Above all, these…